May 16, 2024 Ghent to Sint Amands

Today at 8 a.m. the temperature was 14°C, the wind WNW 4 k/hr and there was a steady rain. At breakfast Peter said that the long ride was cancelled but the short ride of 38 km was still on. The independent cyclists used the GPS assisted route from the Boat Bike app for a longer route and even crossed the river in a ferry. While waiting for the ferry our boat, Magnifique 1 which is a passenger barge, cruised past them. The boat negotiated several locks before we met up with it around 3 p.m. Then started the cruise from Dendermonde to Sint Amands along the “Belgium Amazon”.

The morning forecast was rain getting lighter by noon. Deidre opted to stay on the boat today. We waited until almost 10 a.m. for the rain to subside, but it was still pouring for the next 30 minutes. By the time we stopped at Melle by the church there was hardly any rain, we continued in very light occasional rain to Laarne. We stopped by Castle Van Laarne. Historical records from 1294 mention the existence of the residence. It has two moats, filled with water, around it. In 1673 Laarne became a barony. The castle was added to the historical register in 1943. In 1950s it was in bad need of restoration and was open the public on Sundays in 1967. Laarne is also famous for its Witch Trials in early 1600s. A little while later we stopped at Café De Berre Linde on Kapellestraat in Laarne for a break. Across the street was a small church with H. Maria Bid Voor Ons above the door. The Dutch sign said this version was built in 1774. Just as we departed a light rain began and then turned heavier. We stopped for lunch at St. Huberters restaurant in Donk and its outdoor lawn on Lake Donkmeer. It was created through the harvesting of peat over the centuries. There were some herons flying nearby and a family of Egyptian geese.

We hoped that the rain had ended, but there were still grey clouds and later on we got another heavy rain that changed to light rain. When we caught sight of our ship on the other side of the canal, there were sheep grazing beside the path we were cycling on separated by a short fence. The total ride was just over 42 kilometres. We were happy to find the boat at Dendermonde and get out of the damp clothes and shoes. All of the bicycles were immediately moved on to the boat in preparation for a cruise downstream to Sint Amands where we are morning for the night. The tide affects the Scheldt River, which is Belgium’s largest river. The tide was going out as we travelled with it to Sint Amands.

At 5 p.m. Peter gave an interesting talk about Belgium beer. Jupiler and Stella Artois are owned by the same international company as Labatts Canada and Budweiser.

Beer was first created 3,000 years ago in Mesopotamia then the recipe went to Egypt and gradually around the world. Peter reminded us that ,on his walking tour of Bruges on the first evening when he pointed out St. John’s Hospital, the monks gave their patients a low alcohol beer because water was contaminated and beer was safer to drink. He had a four metre long table covered with over 40 kinds of Belgian beer and their matching glasses from his personal collection. Indian Pale Ale (IPA) was created to last longer on long voyages by adding more hops. Only female hops are added to Belgian beer to give more foam. Abbey beers are not necessarily made in abbeys by monks, but the abbey lets the brewing company use their name for a hefty annual fee. Trappist beer is made by Trappist monks. During World War 2 most breweries had their copper kettles requisitioned by the German occupation forces. Before the war there were more 3,200 breweries after there were only 700. There was a beer tasting after the presentation. The Belgian beer Duval is a double fermented beer. The chief brewmaster at Duval quit over a wage dispute and started his own brewery producing Le Chouffe beer. Eventually Duval bought him out and offered him his job back at three times the former salary. The best selling Trappist beer is Westvleteren. Its competitor is St. Bernard’s Abt 12. They both claim to have the original recipe for the same beer. Larry tried St. Bernard’s Abt 12; Gouden Carolus a whiskey infused beer; Westmalle which is double fermented in the bottle and LeFort a golden blond (they were small samples).

Dinner followed. Tonight it was barbecue themed. The sailor, Julius was the grill master and the chef, Michel took care of the other food. The barbecued meats were ribs, meaty chicken wings, steak and salmon and small shrimp wrapped in foil and barbecued. There was a fabulous salad bar and hot Belgian fries. After dessert was served Peter cranked up the music volume and several people got up to dance. Larry and I did too while the others formed a conga line out to the sundeck. Then when that song ended and we all started to eat our dessert, there was a chant for us to dance again, so we did and got a nice applause when we finished. That was followed by the nightly briefing regarding tomorrow’s cycling routes. There will be a long route 41 km, about the same distance as today or a shorter route 30 km which will take a waterbus for the last part after lunch. Up until that time both groups would take the same route. There will be free time in Antwerp or people can take the Red Star Line museum tour. The crew have the afternoon and evening off, so passengers can explore Antwerp on their own and find a restaurant.

After dinner a few people went off the boat to walk in St. Amands.

Steps today were 3,300 and the bike ride was 42 km.